London Fashion Week 2027: McQueen Returns, 'Messy Girl' Aesthetic Rises

Key points

• Alexander McQueen returned to London after 25 years, with creative director Seán McGirr showcasing dark romanticism, including chainmail skull dresses and lace corsets.
• Mulberry returned after a nine-year absence, with Christopher Kane’s debut collection focusing on leather coats, skirts, and the iconic Baywater bag.
• The 'messy girl' aesthetic emerged as the top trend, rejecting polished minimalism in favor of deliberate chaos, pastel clashes, and undone tailoring.
• 'Gardening-core' became a major theme, featuring aprons, waterproof materials, and trench coats, influenced by Loewe’s watering can handbag.
• Orange was identified as the dominant color for 2027, appearing in collections by Mulberry, Justin Cassin, and others, while ballet-inspired silhouettes and flats gained traction.

Background

This event follows a broader industry trend where British fashion is reasserting its global relevance. Previous coverage noted a shift in footwear toward loafers and refined slip-ons for Fall 2026 and Spring 2027, aligning with the current emphasis on ballet flats and practical yet stylish silhouettes. The return of major brands like McQueen and Mulberry reinforces London's status as a hub for both creative and commercial growth, as highlighted by the British Fashion Council.

How outlets are covering it

BBC and Vogue Business emphasize the 'messy girl' and 'gardening-core' trends as reactions to the saturation of 'quiet luxury' and 'clean girl' aesthetics, framing them as signs of resilience. Who What Wear focuses on street style, noting that attendees favored refined, practical staples like trench coats and ballet flats, suggesting a balance between runway chaos and real-world polish. British Vogue highlights the celebrity and royal presence, noting the absence of King Charles III but the potential return of Meghan Markle, and the high-profile front-row attendance at McQueen and Burberry shows. While BBC and Vogue Business focus on trend forecasting, Who What Wear provides a grounded view of how these trends translate to everyday dressing, and British Vogue underscores the cultural and celebrity impact of the event.

Why it matters

The return of Alexander McQueen and Mulberry signals a renewed focus on British design’s heritage and innovation, potentially boosting the UK’s £62 billion fashion economy. The shift toward 'messy girl' and 'gardening-core' aesthetics reflects a broader cultural move away from rigid minimalism, offering consumers more expressive and practical options. The prominence of orange and ballet-inspired styles may influence retail strategies and consumer spending in the coming season, while the event’s high-profile attendance underscores London’s continued relevance in the global fashion landscape.

What to watch

Expect to see 'messy girl' styling, gardening-inspired silhouettes, and orange tones in mainstream retail and street style for Spring/Summer 2027. The success of McQueen’s and Mulberry’s returns may lead to further re-platforming of London Fashion Week as a commercial and creative hub. Additionally, the continued popularity of ballet flats and practical outerwear will likely drive demand for hybrid footwear and versatile wardrobe staples in the upcoming season.