CFDA Chief Suspended After Physically Restraining PETA Protesters at COS Runway

Key points

• Steven Kolb, CEO and president of the CFDA, voluntarily took a leave of absence after being filmed grabbing, pinning, and covering the mouths of two PETA protesters during a COS show on Sunday.
• Kolb apologized in a statement, stating that 'what happened was completely out of character' and that security should have handled the situation, adding that he is meeting with a professional to ensure such behavior does not recur.
• PETA stated that two of its activists were 'assaulted' by Kolb, with one protester, Mason Melito, describing how Kolb pinned him to the floor and covered his mouth while he shouted slogans against wool.
• The CFDA placed Kolb on leave pending a full review, stating the organization is committed to respectful engagement with differing viewpoints, while PETA announced it is filing a police report and considering criminal charges.
• H&M Group, parent company of COS, stated that it sources wool from certified farms and has suspended licenses for one wool and one mohair farm following an investigation into PETA's allegations, though it noted the investigation did not explicitly link the farms to its products.

Background

The incident occurred during New York Fashion Week, which concluded on Tuesday. Last December, the CFDA announced a ban on animal fur at fashion week events, a move welcomed by PETA, but the ban did not include wool or other animal-derived fibers. PETA has a long history of protesting at fashion events, including a naked protest at Oscar de la Renta's show in 1991. The CFDA, which counts over 300 designers among its members, organizes New York Fashion Week and hosts an annual awards ceremony. Kolb has served as the CFDA's CEO since 2011.

How outlets are covering it

PETA and its protesters condemned Kolb's actions as violent and representative of the cruelty in the wool industry, with senior director Moira Colley stating that Kolb 'reacted aggressively to peaceful protesters.' PETA is pursuing legal action and has invited Kolb to meet to discuss wool industry abuses. In contrast, several fashion industry insiders, including designer Dennis Basso and sources close to Anna Wintour, defended Kolb, describing his actions as a 'lapse in judgment' and arguing that the protesters' behavior was inappropriate and disorderly. Fern Mallis, creator of Fashion Week, placed blame on H&M and COS for inadequate security. Kolb himself apologized, stating that security should have handled the situation and that he is taking a voluntary leave to address the issue.

Why it matters

The incident highlights ongoing tensions between the fashion industry and animal rights activists, particularly regarding the use of wool and other animal-derived materials. It also raises questions about the role of security and the handling of protests at high-profile events. The CFDA's response and the industry's divided reaction may influence future policies and practices regarding animal welfare and protest management at fashion events.

What to watch

Kolb is expected to meet with PETA to discuss their concerns and apologize to the protesters in person. The CFDA will conduct a full review of the incident, and PETA is considering criminal charges and has filed a police report. H&M Group will continue to investigate PETA's allegations and work to improve animal welfare standards across its supply chain. The fashion industry will likely face increased scrutiny over its handling of protests and animal welfare issues.