Kering Confirms End of Anthony Vaccarello’s 10-Year Saint Laurent Era

Key points

• Saint Laurent confirmed Vaccarello's departure on October 9, 2026, following weeks of speculation during Paris Fashion Week.
• Kering CEO Luca de Meo and Saint Laurent CEO Cédric Charbit praised Vaccarello's role in strengthening the brand's identity and cultural influence.
• Barclays reported that Kering told analysts the decision focuses on expanding under-represented categories like daywear, menswear, and leather goods in Asia.
• Chemena Kamali, who served as women’s ready-to-wear director under Vaccarello from 2016 to 2023, is the favored candidate for the new role.
• Vaccarello is scheduled to receive the International Designer of the Year award at the CFDA Fashion Awards on November 2, 2026.

Background

Vaccarello’s final spring 2027 show in September 2026 was widely interpreted as a farewell, featuring gold opulence and sheer lace at the Fontaine du Trocadéro. His tenure began in 2016, succeeding Hedi Slimane, and was marked by bold tailoring, cultural initiatives like Saint Laurent Productions, and a focus on 'cold sexuality' in design.

How outlets are covering it

WWD emphasizes the strategic rationale, citing Kering’s focus on product categories and regional growth, while noting the brand’s return to growth in H1 2026. British GQ highlights the cultural impact of his menswear, citing red carpet moments for actors like Pedro Pascal and Donald Glover. Vogue focuses on his artistic legacy, describing his approach as 'ideological deconstruction' that made the brand 'bigger than fashion.' All sources agree on the departure but differ in emphasis: WWD on business strategy, GQ on celebrity influence, and Vogue on artistic vision.

Why it matters

This marks a significant leadership transition for one of Kering’s most prestigious houses. The shift aims to diversify product lines and expand in Asia, potentially altering the brand’s market positioning and creative direction.

What to watch

Kering is expected to announce the new creative director soon. Vaccarello will attend the CFDA Fashion Awards in New York on November 2 and the British Fashion Council awards in London on November 30.