Burberry Closes London Fashion Week with Birtwell Collaboration and Youthful Trenches

Key points

• Daniel Lee presented the Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Chelsea College of Arts, featuring reimagined trench coats with ruffles, shorter hems, and ruched details.
• The collection collaborated with textile designer Celia Birtwell, introducing new graphics including smiley faces, gingham, and 3D floral embellishments to soften the classic Burberry check.
• Front-row attendees included Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Lila Moss, Jonathan Bailey, and rapper Central Cee, who also walked the runway.
• Burberry reported a 5% year-on-year increase in retail sales in the second quarter, marking its first revenue growth in three years under CEO Joshua Schulman.
• A companion exhibition titled 'The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon' opened at the V&A museum, featuring historical and recent trench designs.

Background

Burberry’s recent turnaround follows a period of financial stagnation, with CEO Joshua Schulman shifting strategy toward 'value for money in a luxury context' to move away from premium pricing that alienated customers. The brand has also faced scrutiny for its reliance on nostalgia, a challenge CNN noted is common among heritage labels like McQueen and Calvin Klein. This show follows earlier London Fashion Week events that highlighted bold spring trends, including a return to London for Alexander McQueen and a comeback for Mulberry, signaling a broader industry shift toward unpolished, outdoorsy aesthetics.

How outlets are covering it

Who What Wear emphasized the collection’s 'soulful' and tactile nature, highlighting the use of fresh tones and the deliberate imperfection of the garments. CNN framed the show as a successful balance between heritage and modernity, arguing that Burberry avoids the trap of pure nostalgia by integrating Birtwell’s exuberant prints. The Guardian focused on the humanizing effect of Birtwell’s collaboration, noting how her hand-painted checks and archive smiley faces made the luxury product feel emotional rather than necessary. WWD provided a visual record of the celebrity attendees, confirming the presence of major stars but offering limited analysis on the collection’s design merits. While all sources agree on the success of the Birtwell collaboration, CNN and The Guardian diverge slightly on the primary driver of the brand’s resurgence: CNN credits the broader strategy of honoring history without being weighed down by it, while The Guardian highlights the specific impact of Birtwell’s 'humanizing' influence on the check pattern.

Why it matters

The collection signals a successful strategic pivot for Burberry, moving away from rigid heritage codes toward a more youthful, emotionally resonant identity. The 5% sales growth and the V&A exhibition demonstrate that the brand is effectively leveraging its 170-year history to drive contemporary relevance. The collaboration with Celia Birtwell sets a precedent for how heritage brands can modernize their core assets, such as the check pattern, without alienating core customers or losing their distinct identity.

What to watch

Burberry will continue to leverage the momentum from the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, with the V&A exhibition running until January 3, 2027. The brand is expected to maintain its focus on outerwear and accessible luxury pricing, potentially expanding the Birtwell collaboration into future seasons. The success of this show may influence other heritage brands to adopt similar strategies of blending historical codes with contemporary, youthful aesthetics to drive sales in a challenging luxury market.