Haider Ackermann Reimagines Tom Ford with Swimwear and Sharp Tailoring
Haider Ackermann’s Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection for Tom Ford marked a bold shift toward sensuality and ease, blending sharp tailoring with exposed swimwear. The show, held in Paris, featured models in cutout swimsuits, silk robes, and tailored jackets in baby blue, olive, and black. Ackermann described the collection as a pursuit of freedom and decadence, echoing the 1990s spirit of the brand’s founder. While some critics noted the provocative nature of the nudity, others praised the precision of the silhouettes and the inclusion of older models.
Key points
- Haider Ackermann introduced swimwear to the Tom Ford runway for the first time, pairing it with sharp tailoring and cashmere knits.
- The collection featured a palette of baby blue, black, olive, and white, with many looks worn without undergarments or with plunging swimwear.
- Ackermann emphasized themes of freedom, daring, and ease, stating he wanted to be 'playful' and 'a touch more dangerous.'
- The show included a red silk robe with a TF monogram, a nod to Hugh Hefner, and leather weekend bags with embroidery.
- Cathy Horyn of The Cut highlighted the precision of the silhouettes, including an olive mechanic’s jumpsuit on an older model, while WWD focused on the 'decadence' and 'audacity' of the looks.
Background
This collection follows a broader trend in Spring 2027 fashion where brands like Prada and Fendi have embraced the 'bra-as-top' aesthetic and relaxed, undone looks. It also contrasts with the sustainability-focused collections seen earlier in Paris Fashion Week, such as Stella McCartney’s ocean-themed show, highlighting the diverse directions designers are taking for the upcoming season.
How outlets are covering it
WWD emphasized the 'decadence' and 'audacity' of the collection, noting the 'more nudity than I’ve ever done before' and comparing the spirit to 1990s Tom Ford. The Cut’s Cathy Horyn focused on the 'sharpened' silhouettes and the 'loosening' of the brand’s usual vanity, praising the inclusion of an older model in a mechanic’s jumpsuit. ELLE’s review, titled 'The Art of Seduction,' likely focused on the sensual and provocative nature of the collection, though specific details were not fully visible in the source text. The outlets generally agreed on the boldness of the collection but differed in their emphasis on the balance between sharp tailoring and exposed swimwear.
Why it matters
The collection signals a potential shift in luxury fashion toward more relaxed, sensual, and less formal silhouettes, challenging traditional notions of tailoring and modesty. It also highlights the evolving role of creative directors in redefining established brands, with Ackermann pushing boundaries to align with contemporary trends of freedom and self-expression.
What to watch
The collection will likely influence the Spring 2027 season, with the 'bra-as-top' and 'undone' aesthetics gaining traction. Ackermann has indicated plans to continue this 'conversation' of joy and risk, suggesting future collections may further explore themes of freedom and decadence. The market response to the swimwear and tailored combinations will be closely watched, particularly in luxury retail and private events.
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