Loewe Spring 2027: McCollough and Hernandez Pivot to Wearable Sportswear

Key points

• Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented their third collection for Loewe, moving away from previous 'experiments' like inflatable parkas toward practical, everyday garments.
• The show was staged in a miniature bullring structure at the Château de Vincennes, featuring a two-tiered seating arrangement for celebrities including Tim Burton and Lesley Manville.
• The collection emphasized 'realness' and ease, incorporating sportswear elements such as polo dresses, cargo pants, and tailored separates, reflecting the designers' American background.
• Craftsmanship remained central, with items like skived leather jackets, glass-bead dresses, and a new 'Puzzle Charm' bag, while the 180th anniversary of the brand was acknowledged.
• Critics noted a move toward a more distilled, autobiographical style, referencing New England prep influences and 1990s spirit, though some felt the outdoor themes were excessive.

Background

Loewe has undergone significant expansion under CEO Pascale Lepoivre and previous creative director Jonathan Anderson, who is now at Dior. The brand, founded as a leather goods workshop, only produced its first garment in 1960. McCollough and Hernandez, known for Proenza Schouler, took over to inject an American sensibility into the Spanish heritage brand, previously experimenting with high-tech and conceptual pieces.

How outlets are covering it

The Cut’s Cathy Horyn praised the shift to 'real clothes' that relate to consumers' lives, noting the success of similar brands like Chanel and Prada, but criticized the lack of a distinctive cast. WWD’s Miles Socha highlighted the balance between Loewe’s 180-year history and the designers' American proclivities, noting the 'two-speed' nature of the brand's evolution. W Magazine emphasized the 'preppy' and autobiographical elements, detailing specific items like backwards polos and leather adaptations of New England staples, while noting the theatrical set design by Casper Mueller Kneer Architects.

Why it matters

This collection signals a broader industry trend toward practicality and 'realness' in luxury fashion, moving away from purely conceptual or gimmicky designs. It reflects a consumer demand for novelty that is also wearable and relatable, especially at high price points, and demonstrates how American designers are reshaping European heritage brands.

What to watch

The collection is part of the Spring 2027 ready-to-wear season in Paris. Future collections may further integrate the 'distilled' approach, potentially refining the balance between sportswear ease and high-craftsmanship, as the designers continue to navigate Loewe's rich history and their own creative identity.