Rolex Launches Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar in Milan
Rolex has introduced the Perpetual Padellone, a new annual calendar watch inspired by the vintage reference 8171. Launched in Milan to coincide with the Oyster case centenary, the timepiece features a new caliber 7190 movement with the Dynapulse escapement. Available in Everose gold and platinum, the watch offers instantaneous date, day, and month displays with a moonphase, priced between $59,000 and $72,800.
Key points
- The Perpetual Padellone is the second annual calendar model from Rolex, following the Sky-Dweller, and is based on the vintage reference 8171.
- The watch features a 39mm case in 18k Everose gold or 950 platinum, with a 12.2mm thickness, closely mirroring the dimensions of the 1950s original.
- It is powered by the new caliber 7190, which utilizes the Dynapulse escapement introduced with the Land-Dweller, offering higher efficiency than traditional lever escapements.
- The annual calendar requires adjustment only once a year, specifically between February and March, using a patented 'Haplos' system.
- Pricing starts at $59,000 for the Everose gold strap version, rising to $72,800 for the Everose gold bracelet version, with the platinum model priced at $66,200.
Background
Rolex launched the Perpetual collection in 2023 with the reference 1908, replacing the discontinued Cellini line. The new Padellone model builds on this foundation, incorporating technical advancements from the 2025 Land-Dweller, such as the Dynapulse escapement. The launch coincides with the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster case, although the original 1950s Padellone was not water-resistant. The watch is part of Rolex's broader strategy to expand into complicated timepieces, a category it has largely avoided since the 1950s, except for the Sky-Dweller.
How outlets are covering it
Hodinkee emphasizes the technical innovation of the caliber 7190 and the Dynapulse escapement, highlighting the efficiency gains and the patent filings that preceded the launch. It also notes the strong design homage to the vintage reference 8171, including the use of Arabic numerals at 3 and 9 o'clock. Revolution Watch focuses on the broader strategic significance of Rolex entering the complication category, framing the launch as a move to dominate the high-end market and support the Swiss watch industry ecosystem. It also provides historical context on Rolex's previous calendar watches, such as the Datejust and the 'Dato-Compax' chronographs. Both sources agree on the watch's appeal to vintage collectors and its positioning within the Perpetual collection, but Hodinkee places more weight on the technical specifications and hands-on experience, while Revolution Watch analyzes the commercial and historical implications.
Why it matters
The Perpetual Padellone marks a significant expansion of Rolex's product line into complicated timepieces, a category it has avoided for decades. The use of the Dynapulse escapement signals a shift toward more efficient and innovative movements, potentially influencing future Rolex designs. The launch also appeals to vintage collectors by reviving a classic design, while the pricing and availability suggest a limited release, likely driving high demand and secondary market interest.
What to watch
Rolex will likely continue to expand the Perpetual collection with additional complications and materials. The success of the Padellone may lead to further innovations in the Dynapulse escapement and other technical advancements. The limited availability and high pricing suggest that the watch will be highly sought after in the secondary market, with potential for price appreciation. Rolex may also explore other vintage-inspired designs in the future, building on the success of the Padellone.
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