Lange Revives Platinum Bracelet Tradition with 50-Piece Datograph Perpetual

Key points

• The new Datograph Perpetual is limited to 50 pieces and features a 41mm x 13.5mm 950 platinum case.
• The dial is black with 11 baguette-cut diamond hour markers totaling 0.13 carats, a first for this model.
• The watch includes a new five-row platinum bracelet with brushed and polished links, distinct from the older Wellendorff designs.
• The timepiece is powered by the hand-wound Caliber L952.1, which has 556 components and a 36-hour power reserve.
• The bracelet uses a Richemont-patented link removal system, allowing for easy resizing with a tool or toothpick.
• The release marks the 20th anniversary of the Datograph Perpetual, which was first introduced in 2006.

Background

The Datograph Perpetual was first launched in 2006, combining a flyback chronograph with a perpetual calendar and outsize date. Historically, A. Lange & Söhne collaborated with German jeweler Wellendorff to produce highly sought-after metal bracelets for its chronographs in the 1990s and 2000s. These bracelets, particularly those on the Datograph, have become some of the most valuable neo-vintage items in the watch market, with secondary prices for original Wellendorff bracelets reaching over 100,000 USD. The current release is seen as a modern response to this collector demand, though it does not use Wellendorff craftsmanship.

How outlets are covering it

Gear Patrol emphasizes the nostalgic appeal of the new bracelet, comparing it to the iconic 1990s Wellendorff designs and noting the 'neo-vintage' trend in the collector market. Hodinkee provides a detailed analysis of the bracelet's technical features, highlighting the use of the Richemont-patented link system and comparing the new five-row design to the older seven-row Wellendorff styles. Hodinkee also notes that while the new bracelet is a technical upgrade, some collectors may miss the elegance of the older designs. Monochrome Watches focuses on the historical significance of the Wellendorff collaboration and the high secondary market value of those pieces, while WatchTime provides a technical overview of the movement and the 20th anniversary context. All sources agree on the limited nature of the release and the high expected price, with Hodinkee suggesting the price is fair compared to the secondary market for older braceleted Langes.

Why it matters

The release of a braceleted Datograph Perpetual is significant for the luxury watch market, as it addresses a long-standing collector demand for a modern version of a highly sought-after configuration. The high secondary market prices for older Wellendorff bracelets indicate strong demand for this type of watch, and the new release is likely to be a major talking point among collectors and investors. The use of a new bracelet design and the inclusion of diamonds also signal a shift in Lange's approach to its classic models, potentially influencing future releases.

What to watch

The 50 pieces are expected to sell out quickly, likely through Lange's VIP clients. The high secondary market prices for older braceleted Langes suggest that the new release will command a premium price on the secondary market. It is possible that A. Lange & Söhne will use the success of this release to justify more bracelet-equipped chronographs in the future, or to update the Datograph Perpetual with newer movement features from the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon.