Diesel's Milan Finale: Martens' 'Experimental' Show Sparks Backlash and Praise

Key points

• Diesel Creative Director Glenn Martens presented his final Spring-Summer 2027 collection at Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2026.
• The show concluded with models in the audience performing explicit acts, including kissing and pole dancing, to Donna Summer's 'Love to Love You Baby'.
• Martens described the finale as 'experimental' and a celebration of body positivity, while critics called it 'distasteful' and an 'orgy'.
• The collection featured deconstructed denim, leather, and knitwear, with outfits becoming progressively skimpier, ending in minimal fabric.
• This was Martens' final show for Diesel before he focuses fully on Maison Margiela, marking the end of a five-year tenure.

Background

This event occurred during Milan Fashion Week, which also featured a craft-focused Vogue World: Milano event and a Prada debut focused on skirts. The controversy follows recent fashion industry disputes, including CFDA president Steven Kolb's resignation after restraining PETA protesters at New York Fashion Week. Earlier London Fashion Week coverage highlighted bold, unpolished trends, contrasting with Diesel's hedonistic approach.

How outlets are covering it

The New York Post emphasized the 'bizarre' and 'distasteful' nature of the show, highlighting audience confusion and social media backlash. WWD framed the event as a 'swan song' for Martens, noting the collection's deconstructed denim and the finale's role as experiential marketing for Diesel's new perfume, 'Only Desire.' WWD also highlighted the fashion industry's focus on the collection's technical aspects, while the Post focused on the spectacle's impact on viewers. Both outlets noted Martens' transition to Maison Margiela, but WWD provided more detail on the collection's design evolution, whereas the Post stressed the public's negative reaction to the explicit acts.

Why it matters

The incident highlights ongoing debates about the boundaries of fashion as performance art and marketing. It reflects broader industry tensions between creative expression and public sensibility, especially after recent controversies at New York Fashion Week. The mixed reception underscores the risk of provocative stunts in an era where fashion weeks are increasingly scrutinized for their social and cultural impact.

What to watch

Glenn Martens will now focus exclusively on Maison Margiela in Paris. Diesel will likely continue its 'Only Desire' perfume campaign, leveraging the show's publicity. The fashion industry may see further scrutiny of runway spectacles, with potential discussions on guidelines for audience participation and explicit content in future shows.