Schiaparelli S/S 27: Roseberry Blends Marathon Focus with Surrealist Glamour

Key points

• The collection emphasized 'aerodynamic' stretch fabrics and mix-and-match separates, reflecting Roseberry’s personal focus on running.
• Key trends included low necklines, sculptural ruffles, embroidered jackets using 1941 archival motifs, and event-worthy shorts.
• The show was staged as a speakeasy-style event with guests including Tate McRae and Law Roach, featuring a soundtrack by Mariah Carey and Missy Elliott.
• Roseberry highlighted the brand’s direct-to-consumer model, noting that only 10 retail locations worldwide sell the exact pieces shown on the runway.

Background

Schiaparelli has grown from $6m in revenue in 2020 to approximately $100m today, remaining a niche luxury brand with limited global retail presence. The house is historically linked to the 1930s Surrealist movement through founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s collaborations with Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau. Recent social media virality, including Kylie Jenner’s lion-head dress, has amplified the brand’s visibility despite its small scale.

How outlets are covering it

Who What Wear characterized the collection as a move toward 'wearability' and softer drama, noting the return of low necklines and jewelry-like details. WWD emphasized the 'flow state' and monochrome palette, linking the design choices to Roseberry’s marathon training and social media break. The Guardian highlighted the brand’s 'aerodynamic' edge and its status as a small but influential house, contrasting it with the American levity brought to Loewe by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. All sources agreed on the presence of sculptural ruffles and archival embroideries, but differed in emphasis: Who What Wear focused on trend forecasting, while WWD and The Guardian focused on the designer’s personal process and business model.

Why it matters

The collection signals a potential industry shift toward more wearable, fluid eveningwear, moving away from purely conceptual avant-garde pieces. It also underscores the growing influence of designer personal wellness and lifestyle choices on high-fashion design narratives.

What to watch

The collection will be available in Schiaparelli’s 10 global retail locations. Industry observers will monitor whether the 'aerodynamic' and mix-and-match trends influence other Paris Fashion Week houses in subsequent shows.