The Forgotten Pioneer: How Ranji Smile’s Failed 1901 Restaurant Paved the Way for Indian Food in America

Key points

• In 1901, Ranji Smile opened 'Omar Khayyam' at 325 Fifth Avenue in New York, widely considered the first Indian restaurant in the US.
• Smile, formerly a curry cook at London’s Cecil and Savoy hotels, gained fame in New York for theatrical cooking demonstrations and exotic dishes like Bombay duck.
• The restaurant closed within a year, with the New York Sun attributing the failure to public fatigue with Indian food as a passing fad.
• Smile faced legal trouble for illegally trafficking staff into the US and later engaged in a series of marriages and fraudulent claims of royal lineage.
• Subsequent figures, such as KY Kira, successfully established Indian restaurants in New York, eventually popularizing the cuisine across the US.

Background

The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw growing curiosity about India in the US, fueled by figures like Swami Vivekananda and increasing immigration. While London had an established Indian dining scene since 1810, New York’s exposure to Indian cuisine was limited. Smile’s arrival coincided with this cultural interest, though his restaurant’s failure highlighted the challenges of introducing unfamiliar cuisines to American audiences.

Why it matters

Smile’s story illustrates the complex intersection of immigration, cultural exchange, and commercial failure in the Gilded Age. His efforts, despite their shortcomings, laid the groundwork for the eventual acceptance and popularity of Indian food in America, influencing later successful ventures like the Ceylon India Inn.

What to watch

The legacy of Ranji Smile is preserved in the thousands of Indian restaurants now operating across the US. His story serves as a historical footnote in the broader narrative of Indian cuisine’s integration into American food culture, highlighting the role of early pioneers in shaping culinary trends.